South African Airways

A good way to get oriented is to head to St Paul’s Cathedral, high up on Le Plateau, with a formidable façade like a ship’s sail dominating the skyline over the Bay of Cocody. There are added flourishes of elephant tusks and beautiful stained glass windows. The cathedral, designed by Italian architect Aldo Spirito, served its purpose well in 2010 by offering a safe haven for people caught in the devastating effects of the war.

Abidjan is quite spread out with and the easiest way to see its various districts is by taking a stroll. A great place to start is at Le Plateau, where you can pick up a map at the tourist information centre in the Ivoire Building. Step back and look up at some of the buildings in this district – they’re as breathtaking up close as they are from a distance. La Pyramide, designed by Italian architect Olivieri, was the first daring structure.

Grand Bassam, close to Abidjan, was once the capital and today it’s a lovely place to peruse craft shops and purchase beautiful wooden carvings. Haggling is a national sport, so don’t pay the frst price you’re quoted unless you’re feeling particularly benevolent.

Adjame is a charming quarter and a nice place to stroll and see the local characters at work. There’s a small lake where professional laundry cleaners do their washing. No detergents are used – they just pound the clothes with rocks until they’re clean.

This rainforest reserve on the northwest edge of town has wonderful walking trails, stunning trees and a picturesque lake. There’s another outdoor launderette too, said to be the largest of its kind in Africa.

This art gallery and shop is run by an Ivorian art historian. You can view and buy paintings, sculptures and jewellery from all across the continent.

A walk around the Cécile Fakhoury Gallery, taking in the sublime photography of Nestor Da and Paul Sika leaves you feeling inspired and hopeful.

Chez Ambroise is a tourists’ icon, an open-air eaterie with a lively atmosphere which serves hearty and distinctly Ivorian food, while singers roam between the tables. A test for the adventurous palate is the popular local dish of giant land snails, washed down with a refreshing Tuborg beer.

For something more formal, Restaurant Aboussouan is a pricy, but great wine bar, or try Saakan in the Plateau district, where the head chef, Christelle Vougo, serves fabulous dishes with authentic local flavours.

Tucked away in Blockosso, this local spot offers good, basic fare. Make a beeline for one of the outdoor tables on the edge of the lagoon for a great panorama of the Abidjan skyline.

There’s a wonderful mix of local and French cuisine to suit every taste and budget. Think sumptuous, spicy charcoal-grilled chicken, addictive fried bananas, seafood and fresh vegetables flavoured with sweat-inducing pimento peppers, ginger, garlic, nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves. Both delicious and easy on the wallet.

The beaches are a wonderful escape from the city and are served by some pleasant shops and cafes. You don’t even need to leave the sand if you want a drink – there are vendors with carts selling cold drinks and small snacks.